The strap makes the watch – that's no exaggeration. The same watch model looks completely different on a NATO strap than on leather or rubber. But what types of watch straps are there, and what material is suitable for which purpose? Here's the complete overview.
NATO Strap
The NATO strap (also known as a pass-through strap) is a single, long nylon strap that passes under the watch. It was originally developed by the British military and has an ingeniously simple safety feature: should a spring bar break, the strap still keeps the watch on your wrist.
Material: Woven nylon. High-quality NATOs use seatbelt nylon – the same material as in car seatbelts.
Advantages: Lightweight, inexpensive, quick to change, waterproof, safety function in case of spring bar breakage, huge color selection.
Disadvantages: Sits a bit higher. Can look too casual for very formal occasions.
Pairs with: Sports watches, pilot watches, military watches. But also with dress watches for a relaxed look.
Two-Piece NATO / Single-Pass
The modern evolution of the classic NATO: Two separate strap parts that are attached to the spring bars like a normal strap, but are made of the same material. Sits flatter, looks cleaner, but loses the safety function of the pass-through strap.
Advantages: Flatter than classic NATO, more elegant look, same comfort.
Disadvantages: No double security in case of spring bar breakage.
Sailcloth Strap
Sailcloth straps (also known as Canvas straps) combine a woven textile surface with a rubber inner lining. The result: The sporty textile look of a NATO strap with the water resistance and dimensional stability of rubber. Most sailcloth straps are two-piece and come with quick-release spring bars.
Material: Woven sailcloth exterior, rubber interior.
Advantages: Waterproof, dries instantly, more robust than pure nylon, quick-release for tool-free changing.
Disadvantages: A bit stiffer than a soft NATO strap. Needs a few days to break in.
Pairs with: Sports watches, dive watches, everyday watches. Ideal for people who want a textile look with water resistance.
→ Discover Our Sailcloth Straps
Rubber Strap
Rubber straps (Rubber Straps) are made of FKM fluoroelastomer or natural rubber. They are the sportiest option: completely waterproof, hygienic, lightweight and extremely durable. High-quality rubber straps often have a curved end – a curved lug that fits flush against the watch case.
Material: FKM rubber (fluoroelastomer) for premium straps, silicone for cheaper variants.
Advantages: 100% waterproof, hypoallergenic, odor-neutral, extremely durable, lightweight.
Disadvantages: Limited color selection, curved-end models often only fit certain watches.
Pairs with: Dive watches, sports watches, MoonSwatch, summer watches.
Leather Strap
The most traditional watch strap. Leather instantly gives any watch a more elegant, classic look. The differences in quality are enormous: from inexpensive split leather to hand-stitched Togo leather with a softglove lining, there are huge differences in feel, durability, and wearing comfort.
Material: Calfskin (most common), alligator leather, ostrich leather, cowhide.
Advantages: Elegant look, soft feel, gets more beautiful with time (patina), huge selection of colors and textures.
Disadvantages: Not waterproof (exceptions: water-resistant lining), needs care, shorter lifespan than nylon or rubber.
Pairs with: Dress watches, chronographs, vintage watches. But also with sports watches for a refined contrast.
→ Discover Hirsch × TWG Bologna Leather Strap
Metal Bracelet
The metal bracelet – whether Oyster, Jubilee, Milanese or Engineer – is the standard strap from the factory on many watches. It offers maximum durability and a professional look.
Material: Stainless steel (316L or 904L), titanium, gold.
Advantages: Extremely durable, professional look, no wear, waterproof.
Disadvantages: Heavy, can pull hair, scratches visible, expensive to replace.
Which strap for which occasion?
Leather or metal strap. Sailcloth as a sporty-elegant alternative.
NATO or two-piece NATO. Lightweight, comfortable, individual.
Rubber or NATO. Both dry quickly and are easy to care for.
Leather. Instantly adds a touch of elegance to any watch.
NATO or sailcloth. Robust, easy to care for, dries quickly.
Conclusion
There is no "best" watch strap – there is only the right strap for the right moment. My recommendation: Start with a good NATO strap as an all-rounder, supplement with a rubber or sailcloth strap for the summer, and invest in a high-quality leather strap for special occasions. This way, you'll be covered for every situation.
Discover all watch straps →
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